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1. First clear away all obstructions and ensure a reasonable
level befor pegging out the line of the fence with string.
2. Mark the position of the end straining posts and
dig the holes for their foundations. In normal soil allow for
the following foundations:
(a) Posts up to 1.40m (approx 4ft 7in) the holes should
be 450mm (1ft 6in) square and 600mm (2ft) deep
(b) Posts above 1.40m (approx 4ft 7in) the holes should
be 450mm (1ft 6in) square and 750mm (2ft 6in) deep
(c) Holes for straining post stays should be 450mm
x 300mm (1ft 6in x 1ft) and 450mm (1ft 6in) deep
3. Plant the end straining post making sure that the
earth is well rammed around the post or preferably embedded in
large rubble or old bricks, but firm ramming is essential. For
the best results the posts should be embedded in concrete.

4. Fix a line taut between the straining posts and
set the intermediate standards along this line at 3.0m (10ft)
intervals. If the line of the fence curves, it is advantageous
to fix backstays to every standard. Usually it is sufficient
to ram the backstay straight into the ground, but when using
concrete, Pylon or plastic-coated steel posts, the posts should
be fixed in concrete.
5. When the posts are firmly set unroll the coil of
wire and strain between the posts. The number of line wires depends
on the height of the fence and is as follows:
Under 1.2m (4ft) - 2 lines
1.2m (4ft) to 2.25m (7ft 5in) - 3 lines
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6. Erection depends on the type of post being used -
Wooden - see that the line wire are evenly spaced between
top and bottom edge of the fencing and strained by using an eyebolt.
See illustration showing how eyebolts, hook bolts and stretcher
bars fit to a wooden terminal post. (As illustrated under
item 10)
Angle-iron - strain the line wires using winding brackets
bolted to straining post. See illustration below
Concrete - strain the line wires by using an
eyebolt. This bolt also fastens an angle cleat to which the stretcher
bar is secured. The line wires are strained by screwing up the
nut on the eyebolt.

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